How is fascia installed




















Outer edge of soffit should over hang by 10mm to fit groove in back of fascia board. Nail fascia board to rafter feet with sufficient height to create tile kick. Allow for height of over fascia ventilator if required. Underdress existing felt with dpc material or eaves protectors EP New material must dress into the gutter. Fit gutter brackets directly to fascias, click here for guttering installation guide. Fix corners and joints using Fixall flexible adhesive, this is important as it allows the boards can expand and contract.

NB, fixing with a non flexible adheisve or pinning both sides of the corners and joints will result in cracking of the corners and joints. Our roofline assembly video shows how the box end components fit together. Finish fascia level with the face of the rafter gable. Soffit should over hang by 10mm and may be cut square or mitred. Measure and cut box end from a deep board.

Front edge should tilt up to match height of fascia board. Health and Safety Full health and Safety information is available on request. Asbestos By law all asbestos materials must be removed by trained operatives under strictly controlled conditions. Off-Cuts Contractors for new build and refurbishment works should be aware that larger off-cuts from some boards may have been scheduled for use in other areas of the installation and should be handled carefully until their use is established.

Fascia Boards Replacement fascia boards 16mm thick or thicker are able to support the weight of the lower row of tiles without the need for a tilt fillet or kick plate. Fixings Edge Building Products A4 grade stainless steel plastic headed nails or capped screws. Sequence of Work A. With the latter option, timbers are used to form a triangle that pushes the soffit tight down onto the brickwork and also that the soffit can be fixed up into. Whilst the option on the right is far easier to install, there is an inherent problem with that set-up.

If the gutters overflow during extreme wet weather and often when gutters are full of leaves etc. When the cavity starts filling with water, it's only a matter of time before it works it's way inside, possibly even causing rising damp. It's possible to install the soffit in the situation above with a very slight fall toward the fascia boards, to reduce the risk of that happening.

If you haven't already, work out the overhang normally done when first calculating the rafter lengths Barge boards and box ends The picture above shows how the fascias that are fixed to the rafter feet tie into the barge boards that cover the outer rafters on the end of a gable roof. Soffit is the horizontal area underneath a roof overhang, and fascia is the vertical face of the edge of a roof.

Any handy DIY person can have success installing this stuff, but your experience depends on understanding the challenges involved and the steps you take to achieve the three main aluminum soffit and fascia goals. Working with factory-finished aluminum soffit and fascia involves cutting operations that use a combination of hand and power tools.

Besides a good pair of aviation snips for medium-sized cuts, I use a pair of small, first-aid scissors for completing tiny cuts accurately. The blade I prefer is made especially for soffit and fascia work, and slices more cleanly and quietly than a regular crosscut blade. For best results, also give a quick shot of WD to the teeth after every few cuts, to extend blade life.

You can greatly reduce the scratch hazard by installing self-sticking felt pads onto the support arms of your saw. This protects the painted finish on those occasions when soffit and fascia needs to be cut with the finish facing down. I use the kind of felt sold to protect wood floors from furniture feet. This phase of the work is simple, but if brick or stone veneer will be going up later, J-channel gets a little trickier.

Snap a chalk line to act as a guide, then fasten the J-channel with screws along the mark. Soffit comes next, but watch out. Aluminum nails sold for soffit and fascia work are soft and short, so it can be frustrating to drive them. I use a framing nail as a centre punch for getting nail holes started in pieces of soffit, but I never use the standard aluminum nails for securing the aluminum.

When expansion and contraction issues are ignored, wavy, buckled fascia is a constant eyesore. It ripples when the sun shines, and smoothens out on cloudy days.



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